Fawked

[Peccavi18]

Out of curiosity, why did you mount the rear shocks on such an angle? I doubt you get much from them. out-boarding them on the frame will get you a lot better results.

In those pics they are just laying on the truss, not mounted up top. Once mounted they are at approx 65degs and I left room to mount them closer to vertical but at the cost of up travel. Original plan was to outboard but with the narrow axle and rim backspacing I decided to try this route. if it sux I will get spacers and go outboard.

Packaging problems up front is just lack of room. I think my biggest problem is how low I have it setup. (19.5" belly) with a 2.75" stretch up front. This weekend I'm gonna lift it abit to see it that helps. I hope I can get away without pushing the stretch back to 2" or going Astro van box. Everything except sway bar and springs are fitting as is, till I articulate hard then it I get random bind spots and pieces kissing.

[SirFuego]

Has anyone seen ORI struts in action or ridden on them? They caught my attention, I am getting a quote on a set for the front. They sound like they would solve alot of my small clearence problems and make set-up a breeze. Listed prices show 1 of them running just short of double the price of a set of used coilovers but... no coils to setup/swap, no valving, no need for a swaybar, smaller diameter, no unloading, no bumpstops or limit straps needed. Sound like a win win, just need a nitrogen charge system. These would deff put the build on hold till spring but might be worth the wait. looking for input, Dan maybe you've seen them?

I've read a lot of good things about them. They seemed to have improved the turn around time pretty significantly, too.

I've been sorta considering them when I swap axles. I crunched the numbers and once you factor in a sway bar (antirock style), air bumps, and limit straps, you just about break even. But of course that assumes you were already planning on a sway bar, air bumps, and limit straps. Of course a ton of time is also saved not having to get all that extra stuff setup, though. I like them (at least the idea of them since I have no experience), because it seems to be a "simpler" solution since there is less to setup. But like Dan said, many people don't run sway bars or air bumps on trail rigs, so they might not financially make sense for a regular trail rig.

For someone who wants coilovers or air shocks that is paying someone else to do the work (and also getting sway bars, air bumps, etc), I think the ORI's pay for themselves since the labor to set them up, in theory, would be a lot less than also doing air bumps and sway bars.

[Peccavi18]

I have limit straps, front anti-rock swaybar, with eventual planning for airbumps and coilovers. The lack of lift is gonna require airbumps for sure, I like my teeth and fillings. So selling those items will greatly offset my cost, wait wouldn't be a factor it's been off the road a year anyways and I would love to be able to beat it at speed. The fact they don't unload when climbing is the first thing that caught my attention and something I would really like more input on as well.

[dan58]

I think you're giving the air bumps more credit than they're due. Unless you are bombing down the whoops, you don't need them. We mostly do slow crawls that don't jar you much. I've yet to see a crawler use air bumps. Actually, a lot of air shock users don't have any bumpstops. Those who do will just run a regular poly/ruber bumpstop or timbrens. With a set of coilovers, you rarely (if ever) bottom them out.

Think of your uses and available places to wheel and go fast for extended periods. We're unfortunate in that regard...we have no hammers. Your high speed will end up being confined to roads (sucky, huh?)

You are a perfect example of why I say to get a tow rig and an offroad pile. Making a street-legal rig on big tires is expensive! Just think of how much easier this would be with full hydro and no concern about width.

[Peccavi18]

I think you're giving the air bumps more credit than they're due. Unless you are bombing down the whoops, you don't need them. We mostly do slow crawls that don't jar you much. I've yet to see a crawler use air bumps. Actually, a lot of air shock users don't have any bumpstops. Those who do will just run a regular poly/ruber bumpstop or timbrens. With a set of coilovers, you rarely (if ever) bottom them out.

Think of your uses and available places to wheel and go fast for extended periods. We're unfortunate in that regard...we have no hammers. Your high speed will end up being confined to roads (sucky, huh?)

You are a perfect example of why I say to get a tow rig and an offroad pile. Making a street-legal rig on big tires is expensive! Just think of how much easier this would be with full hydro and no concern about width.

I would have to agree recently with as much as I have tied up in this thing, I have seen a few sweet competitive buggies go up for sale that I would love to have. And an old tow rig can be had cheap. Although I really do/did enjoy driving the jeep even if it's on the road. My cavalier is a pos and as close as work is I may test my luck DD'ing the Jeep once it's done. I have been planning a move out west in a few years, so hopefully Johnson valley will be a reality some day. I have the stock bumpstops on the rear and will deff have to come up with something up front.

My pants fit abit tighter looking at this buggy. I almost want to call about it. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=828372

[dan58]

I would have to agree recently with as much as I have tied up in this thing, I have seen a few sweet competitive buggies go up for sale that I would love to have. And an old tow rig can be had cheap. Although I really do/did enjoy driving the jeep even if it's on the road. My cavalier is a pos and as close as work is I may test my luck DD'ing the Jeep once it's done. I have been planning a move out west in a few years, so hopefully Johnson valley will be a reality some day. I have the stock bumpstops on the rear and will deff have to come up with something up front.

My pants fit abit tighter looking at this buggy. I almost want to call about it. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=828372

Will's truck is (was) insane. It was pretty damned cool watching him blow past us in the race. It works(ed) well. To make it a runner again would be many thousands of bucks.
Looking at Pirate makes a person scream. You can buy a build rig on 60s for $6K anymore. It's just not smart financially to build anything new anymore.

After going without a topless rig for 3 years now, I sorta miss it. But having a reliable and comfy tow rig makes up for it. I plan to fix up a CJ on 31s for bobbing around town. It's enough for a fix.

[gonecheenin]

I plan to fix up a CJ on 31s for bobbing around town. It's enough for a fix.

A nice 5 with a 304 & sidepipes would be a sweet summer cruiser!

[Peccavi18]

I got the front end pretty well finished up yesterday and today. Everything fits(barely) but it's sitting on the springs now. Need to finish the trackbar mounts, final weld a few pieces, lengthen the bump-stops and wait for my $0.01 ebay win. A upper intermediate steering shaft to show up so I can "adjust" my steering to fit up over the frame rail and motor mount that it is currently blocked by. I had to make some concessions like no true high steer, no Ruffstuff front diff cover, radius arm, and the anti rock is gonna loose at least 1 hole from the length of the arms. Also the drivers side will be bumpstopped about an inch lower than I wanted but till I can bend the waggy pitman arm up more it's the only way with out a major redo, and my coils have a ghetto lean to the front since I haven't moved the upper bucket forward yet.
Over all I'm surprised, I have more clearance than I expected (guessing I could fit 42"s) and managed to stay low. Although I already want to cut the front of the frame off and get rid of the stupid bends up there during the next "stage" of the buildup when I swap over to coilovers. To get it lower with even more up travel and have a better location for the steering box.

pics are loading

[Krod]

Ryan where did you get the Washing Soda?
I've been all over and cant find it anywhere.

[Peccavi18]

Pulling this back up from the dead. Sorry didn't realize you posted Matt, I got the washing soda from the Shop n Save in Bethalpark.

Finally motivated to work on it again the last few weeks and it's comming together. Most everything is welded. Steering is built, parts are painted. I have a few pics to load but nothing significant. I've been buying alot of tools lately, already planning for a few changes, but want to get it finished and drive/break what I have so far before round 2 starts. It's sitting at 6'8" to the top of the hard top at the windshield, on fully inflated 40s. The steering is tight, the tie rod comes within 1/4" of the track bar mount at full turn. The uptravel has suffered from my choice of location of the steering box and hoses. It's close but everything fits. There is still a bunch of small things to do before it's drivable but progress is finally happening, it's nice crossing stuff off the chalkboard finally.

At some point during the steering build the wheel got turned and the clock spring shit out, gonna order a new one so I can work on the electrial and finish buttoning that up. I have no clue what I did wrong but one turn signal used to work and the other brake light worked but none of the parking lights worked? I have the hanes manual out but it just just says I are dumb at electrial. Having 3 wire leds I have no clue which wires got crossed. If anyone is good at electrical and is close to Franklin, I have a variety of beer and pop and will gladly get food. Goal is to have it moving and stopping under it's own power by memorial day, good chance I'll be taking my vacation between now and then to make that happen.

[Deadman 94 xj]

Progress is good!

[Krod]

Do you have 9/16th studs in the front 60? If you do, what part # works with the H2's?

I found lots of info on the 14b studs, but the 60 seems to be hit or miss with correct info for H2 wheels.

[CESCO]

Do you have 9/16th studs in the front 60? If you do, what part # works with the H2's?

I found lots of info on the 14b studs, but the 60 seems to be hit or miss with correct info for H2 wheels.

I just ended up using the 1/2" studs on the front and 9/16" studs on the rear. 2 different size lug nuts kinda sucks, and with the wheels I am running I had to grind the out side of a socket to fit the rear..

[dan58]

Pirate is your friend for the stud conversion. You need to drill the hub and rotor. I think it was in the range of a 43/64 bit or something therebouts. Regardless, I ran Dorman 610-283s in my chevy front with H2s.
Use this page to cross reference. The front page has a search function, so you can type in what advance auto lists, and it will cross reference.
https://www.dormanproducts.com/catal...6_hardware.htm
I'm also running McGard lug nuts for the correct acorn. Cheapest place I found lug nuts was Amazon.com.

[Krod]

Awesome, thanks guys. I will not use different sized studs/threads F/R, so that option is out.

Dan, I have the Dorman master catalog and have been paging through it to find what will work, and so far it all agrees with GiS's posts on Pirate to drill the hubs and use the studs he listed. Do you have a part # on those lug nuts you used, or even a spec on the taper so I can cross-ref?

Ryan, get movin bud! at this pace I'm going to be on the first trail ride you go on with MY junk LOL

[jackb1]

I have 9/16s on my front... but I don't think I have a part number. You're welcome to come take measurements or even pull one to see if it has a number on the back. They're basically still new, so it might.

edit: no drilling required.

[Krod]

What year is your 60 Brian?

The newer ones have 9/16" studs. Mine do not (79 Ford).

I really wouldn't be too worried about 1/2" to 9/16", but I'm anal about that kind of thing...plus its a PITA to find lug nuts and keep them straight for 32 studs! LOL I also need to make sure the length will work with the aluminum wheels, so I'm double checking before I drop $50 on studs

[jackb1]

didn't notice the ford, sorry. I've got a 78 or 79 chevy.

It could be worse. I have metric on the rear of mine.

[dan58]

What year is your 60 Brian?

The newer ones have 9/16" studs. Mine do not (79 Ford).

I really wouldn't be too worried about 1/2" to 9/16", but I'm anal about that kind of thing...plus its a PITA to find lug nuts and keep them straight for 32 studs! LOL I also need to make sure the length will work with the aluminum wheels, so I'm double checking before I drop $50 on studs

Double check. My Allied Monsters are too thick of a flange to use my old bolts that were fine for H2s.

[Peccavi18]

Mine came stock,9/16 and they are long enough. I have s spare sitting here if you want me to measure it. I don't have a part # handy though. For lugs I have the part number in one of the pics in this thread. Although it comes in a metric 27 mm or standard 1" make sure you get all the same. I have half and half, although I got new lugs with the beadlocks so they are just sitting for now. If you wanna a deal on a few let me know.