OverDrive - YJ

[Krod]

Ok I'm starting an actual thread in here since this is going to be a long project and I need a place to keep track of it all. Figured some of you would be interested in the process.

Some of you know my YJ was in need of a rebuild, so rather than trying to piece together something from the remains, I decided to start from the ground up (literally).

In the works

• YJ Frame & 4wd Hardware glass tub
• GM 3.8 litre L67 supercharged v6
• Aisin-Warner AW4, manual shift conversion w/OD
• Atlas 4 speed
• 78 HP Dana 60 Detroit 4.88 and other goodies
• 14bFF Detroit & 4.88's
• Double triangulated 4 link rear, 3 link front w/panhard
• 40's
• 14" FOA coilovers F/R

I'm going to try to keep it somewhat drivable on the street, but I'm sure I'll have to make concessions to make everything work together (mainly the steering). We'll see where we're at when that bridge arrives...


The remains of the old YJ were sold or traded off....sad to see her go, but I know the parts got a good home and will be abused accordingly

What it was:...


Stripping the old Jeep for parts...(no comments about it looking like a rollerskate please... )



For now its all mock-up...


Deliveries from Brown, er...White Santa (...it was FedEx, I'm not racist )

Ballistic came through with some goodies


They're sitting in the new tub, on a MUCH better frame (the picture here doesn't do it justice...stripped pictures coming soon)

The Engine and transmission are bolted together for mock-up and motor mount fab. Headers fit like a glove, so I just need to get moving on building the links and mocking up the 60/14bFF.



Plasma cutter gets shit done mo-fasta! Should have bought that thing a LONG time ago.

More pics to come as I get shit done.

[XJchris98]

Whats that sexy blue car in the garage behind the jeep?

[limegreentj]

looks like a good build...but i would be weary of using fiberglass for a trail jeep. when you roll it it blows up....but the nice thing is you can tiger hair repair it

[Krod]

Whats that sexy blue car in the garage behind the jeep?

Some POS we should have swapped the Starion motor into a long time ago...but SOMEONE had to buy a Jeep

looks like a good build...but i would be weary of using fiberglass for a trail jeep. when you roll it it blows up....but the nice thing is you can tiger hair repair it

trail jeep? Oh I get it...you think I'm going to wheel this one.. lol



Seriously, the cage, sliders, and corners will all be tied into the frame as an assembly. The glass is pretty much there for looks, and to keep it rust free. I have seen the glass tubs take some pretty hard hits and rather than cracking, simply flex and pop back. I guess it depends on what you hit. Stop down some weekend and help, and I'll explain better.

[limegreentj]

if i ever get my shit on the road i'd be more than happy to help you out man...that jeeps gonna be nice anyway (fiberglass or no)

[Krod]

Did some more prep and mockup this weekend in between head work on Chris' XJ.


Started stripping the frame of the old powder coat and what little rust was on it.

It's in really nice shape under all the old faded black


Aircraft stripper takes powder coat, paint, and anything else thats attached to your frame and makes it go away. We WIPED it off with rags for 90% of the rails, and it looked like it just came back from media blasting....unfreakinbeleavable stuff!!!







Made in CANADA EH!



Still have some random YJ brackets to remove, but the plasma is paying for itself...and the neighbors are liking the lack of grinding we have to do because of it.




And I'm finally getting the headers set on the engine. Its going to be tight getting all of this plus a driveshaft in there, but we'll see next week how the 60 fits under all of it.






More next week after we finish the XJ long arm project!

[gonecheenin]

That thing is already sexy!


Where'd you get that fancy frame?

[Krod]

Front 3 Link is coming together. I'm trying to keep it as low as I can without hacking the frame to bits. Should end up with a belly height around 26-27" with 20" rolling radius tires. I can live with that for what we wheel around here.

Everything clears, full bump shitty cameraphone teaser pic...


I'm using .750" SHC shoulder bolts for the trac bar, since I don't like loading bolts in shear (even double shear) for something like that. The pin in the pic is for mockup/welding.

[gonecheenin]

dang man, that looks like some hardware you got going together there!

I'm gonna have to stop & check it out sometime.

[Krod]

dang man, that looks like some hardware you got going together there!

I'm gonna have to stop & check it out sometime.

Give me a call. I'm there most weekends and I need to get a steering box from you for mockup!

[gonecheenin]

I need to get a steering box from you for mockup!

No sweat, you need pitman arm & steering coupler too?

[Krod]

Yes.

I think I'm going to have to use an astro van box & a waggy arm eventually, but a stocker will let me see how it should all fit for the time being. I've got a feeling I'm going to have to relocate it anyway

[Krod]

little update since I've been sitting on these pics for a while.

The front is all tacked together, but the 60 will need pulled to finish welding the truss/brackets. Still have some work to do like chopping the front once I figure out where the steering box needs to go, and welding the gussets on the trac-bar frame side mount.





1st pass welds on the LCA frame brackets



Transfered the AW4 tail-housing pattern (using the paper and pencil method)...



...so I could start work on the transmission crossmember.



I did the crossmember this way to help resolve the torque developed in the transfer case rather than relying on the tail-housing of the AW4 to take that load.

I still have a good bit of cutting and bracing to do to make it solid enough for my liking to hold the Atlas, but it should help with the problems commonly seen when running a heavy case and deep TC gears...like broken transmission tail-housings...

Rear 4 link crossmember is almost done, and I'm working to get the rear truss and links done this weekend. Updated pics coming Sunday night.

[Krod]

Rear 4 link is coming together. I still need to tie the rear truss together and add the bracing to the center crossmembers, and A LOT of final welding...but its finally starting to look like a chassis.





Anyone want to bend some tube? I need coil-over hoops in the near future

[guy]

Nice lookin build man i like what your doing. did you use a link calculator on your 3 and 4 link?

[cityslicker]

goddamn thats some kinda long arm there...

[Krod]

Nice lookin build man i like what your doing. did you use a link calculator on your 3 and 4 link?

For the rear, yes. The front was put together to fit around the engine and frame. Kept the ~25% of tire diameter and 8" minimum vertical separation rules on my mind as I set everything up in the front though.

Rear numbers


I don't put much faith into the link calculator numbers, since its SO dependent on the final weight distribution and COG height. Build what works and put it where it fits, but keep the separation rules in mind since ignoring those can actually cause the forces in the links/brackets to really jump up.

[Krod]

goddamn thats some kinda long arm there...

really no longer than most LA setups.... ~37" links all around with the exception of the front upper.

[guy]

Rear numbers


I don't put much faith into the link calculator numbers,

heard that its a good starting point then tweak to ur needs. Keep taking ur time it'll payoff in the end.

[jeepxj3]

OH my! I cant believe I missed this thread Matt! Your YJ is realling taking on quite the transformation! Ill have to swing by to take a look at this!

[gonecheenin]

Matt, you sure you want your lower links that heavily triangulated?

If I remember my link theory right, going that route will allow for alot of body roll in corners & on off cambers. If you were to make the lowers closer to parrallell if would kinda act like its own sway bar.

Basically, a little bit of flex steer in the rear will actually cause enough natural bind in the chassis that it won't lean like a drunkin bum on a sidehill (I think)

[Krod]

Matt, you sure you want your lower links that heavily triangulated?

If I remember my link theory right, going that route will allow for alot of body roll in corners & on off cambers. If you were to make the lowers closer to parrallell if would kinda act like its own sway bar.

Basically, a little bit of flex steer in the rear will actually cause enough natural bind in the chassis that it won't lean like a drunkin bum on a sidehill (I think)

You're right.

I would have loved to have the lowers more parallel to the frame for an easier to package 4-link. But doing that brings the roll axis angle up significantly = more rear steer. Sway is easier to handle than rear steer IMO (spring rates, shock angle, and swaybars).

Its a compromise for sure, so I have a feeling a swaybar in the rear is going to be a necessity.


The big floppy donkey dick syndrome should be more dependent on roll center height in relation to my COG. If the calculator numbers mean anything (at least at ride height on level ground), then my roll axis is at ~27", which is just above the belly height. If I do anything with the rear geometry, its going to involve getting that number closer to the COG height to help minimize the need for a stiff swaybar to counteract the lean.

We'll see how well it does in about 4 more years

Ill have to swing by to take a look at this!

You've got my number.

[CESCO]

nice looking build man..

I think you will be happy running a fiberglass body. I run one and it does have some cracks in it, but even with those it still bounces back. I have heard the crunch of fiberglass many times, you will get used to it.

[Krod]

Thanks.

I'm looking forward to the no-rust factor
The body will be sandwiched in between corners and rockers that tie into the frame/cage, so hopefully that will eliminate the typical splintered fiberglass that I see on some glass bodies that get wheeled. I'll let the metal armor take the hits as its easier to replace/fix when it gets beat than major body panels.

Anyone have a Waggy pitman arm laying around by the way???

[CESCO]

Thanks.

I'm looking forward to the no-rust factor
The body will be sandwiched in between corners and rockers that tie into the frame/cage, so hopefully that will eliminate the typical splintered fiberglass that I see on some glass bodies that get wheeled. I'll let the metal armor take the hits as its easier to replace/fix when it gets beat than major body panels.

Anyone have a Waggy pitman arm laying around by the way???

I have my body sandwiched where the roll cage mounts to the frame. I am not running any metal armor, so the fenders are broken along with some corners and the doors. even with all of the damage that I have done to the body I will stay with the fiberglass. it has a memory and bounces back. as far as the rust factor, i used to think that to but really never ran it on the winter roads after all the mods so now it is not even a factor for me.